The magnificent 14-mile harbour of Prince Rupert is one of the deepest natural, ice-free harbours in the world and offers a great starting point for a trip to the western coast of Canada. In the few days we spent in Haida Gwaii, we marvelled at the superb old-growth rainforests and appreciated the beauty of Haida culture. In the sea between the islands and the mainland, we found the Hecate Strait reefs, 9,000-year-old glass sponges, as we made our way to the Great Bear Rainforest, where we met grizzly bears, bald eagles and the rare and elusive white-furred spirit bear.